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City Guide: Istanbul

One of the most striking things about Turkey's largest city is its youthfulness. Long celebrated for its mix of East and West, Istanbul capitalises on its ancient roots even as it moves into the 21st century. The Sultanahmet district is the old city; Beyoğlu is the 19th-century European quarter; Nisantasi, with its malls and restaurants, is the stomping ground of the bourgeoisie; lastly, the Asian side offers leafy neighbourhoods and swanky waterfront pads. And swirling about everything is the Bosphorus, the body of water that defines Istanbul.


SHOP AT...
The Grand Bazaar, one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world, sells everything from jewellery, leather and carpets to belly-dancing costumes. In Beyoğlu, Istiklal Caddesi (Independence Ave) is Istanbul's answer to high-street shopping. For more unique finds, try Atelier 55 for Turkish couture and Vie en Rose for organic oils and cosmetics. If you love antiques, head to Cukurcuma.

EAT AT...
Kumkapi, an old Greek and Armenian district, is awash with inexpensive fish restaurants. If you're looking for contemporary Turkish, visit Cezayir in Beyoğlu, which is on "French street", named for its kooky Parisian vibe. If you want your food and clubbing in one place, Reina serves international food before turning into a club. For top-end dining, people-spotting and views to die for, Ulus 29 offers the ultimate Istanbul experience. Just make sure you dress for the part.

STAY AT...
Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus offers some of the city's best views from beautifully appointed modern rooms in a 19th-century former palace. Located on the European bank, it offers some serenity away from the city's frenetic pace. A visit to the hotel's Turkish bath, or hammam, is a must, bringing total luxury to this authentic experience. For a more central stay, try the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet, which is smaller, but equally luxurious.

DON'T MISS...
The exquisite Hagia Sophia was built by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian in 537AD, converted to a mosque in 1453, and is now a museum. Topkapi Palace was the home of the Ottoman sultans for 400 years: get lost in its mosques, residences, harem, bakery, stables and libraries. In summer, the giant club, bar and restaurant complexes on the Bosphorus come alive. For a casual taste of this bustling city, take a wander around the Asmalı Mescit district to see local life at its best.

HOW TO GET THERE...
Flight Centre has return airfares from Sydney to Istanbul several times a week flying Emirates, from $1949; Malaysia Airlines, from $1912; and Etihad Airways, from $2347. Call 1300 939 414 or visit
www.flightcentre.com.au.