You Have to Go Beer-Hopping in Belgium's Capital of Hops
What’s better about Belgium than beer? (Photo: Thinkstock)
Once the words “Stella Artois” are uttered, the average American may have difficulty conversing further about Belgian beer. Sure, the nation’s signature brew is prominently featured in many Flemish watering holes, particularly in its hometown of Leuven. But the irony is that Stella — now owned by Anheuser-Busch InBev, which became the world’s largest brewer after its 2008 acquisition of America’s own Budweiser — is more readily available around the globe than in certain cities within Belgium.
If you’re looking to plan a vacation to Belgium centered around beer, you need to understand such subtleties. That’s because there are fierce tribal loyalties among Belgian brews, which one tourism official likens to sports rivalries, complete with identifying caps, T-shirts, and even mugs.
Biking through the center of Leuven (Photo: Sang yun Lee/Flickr)
If beer truly is sport in Belgium, the leagues are continually expanding. There are more than 150 breweries in the country, and more than 30 in the Flemish province alone. Experts cite the small city of Leuven as the beer capital of Belgium, where more than 350 beers are readily available. The city’s motto? “Leuven is the place to be(er).” Those concerned about imbibing on an empty stomach will be introduced to “bapas,” Belgian tapas such as caramelized ribs that are perfectly matched to specific brews.
Proud Leuven brews (Photo: Fábio Gianesi/Flickr)
In a country steeped in history — particularly the bloody campaigns of the two world wars — even beer drinking can take on historical significance. One bar in Leuven has the distinction of being the only building in the city hall square that was not burned down by the German army during the occupation in 1914, but only because at the time it was a tobacco store owned by an American and the kaiser’s troops sought to avoid antagonzing the then-neutral United States.
Related: Battlefields and Beyond: Exploring the Region Where World War I Began
The university in Leuven (Photo: Hühnerauge/Flickr)
Prior to the devastating World War I battles that reshaped the Flanders region, there were more than 50 breweries in Leuven; many were destroyed and then rebuilt, only to be destroyed once again during the region’s occupation by German troops during World War II. After that, rapid consolidation among the larger breweries whittled down the local industry.
Today only two beers are produced in Leuven, though tours are available at both the Stella Artois and Domus facilities. Right outside Leuven are dozens more breweries that can be visited by bike, car, bus, or rail. However, the city remains an excellent launching point for a beer lover’s tour of Belgium.
“Beer is marketed to men,” explains Marie Vanhellemont, a Leuven-based specialist who self identifies as a beer cytologist. “But women helped discover beer and they could love it as well.” She has tasted more than 600 beers herself, all while writing the definitive local guidebook, Beer: A Round of Flemish Brabant. And she clearly loves guiding foreign tourists on the ultimate pub crawl through Leuven.
Among the bar-hopping highlights in Leuven:
Façades of Leuven (Photo: Thinkstock)
• The “Old Square” section of Leuven is ringed with beer bars dating from the 1360s. Some pubs offer board games and artisan brews crafted by Belgian masters, and guests are welcome to stay for hours.
• A few local brewers believe every barrel is — and should be — different, so their batches are numbered, corked, and labeled by date like wines. A current example is Belgian Blond Ale, aged in cognac bottles as a limited edition of just 2,580.
Related: A Toast to the Finest Beer Bars in the World
The Capital Bar, which has its own beer cellar (Photo: Capital Bar)
• The Capital Bar currently offers more than 2,200 brands plucked by a pulley system from its “beer cellar” visible beneath customers’ feet through glass floor panels. The owners hope to swell their inventory to 3,000 beers soon and earn a spot in the (ironically titled) Guinness World Records.
M-Café, set in a museum (Photo: M-Café)
• At M-Café, beers are matched to the burgers they wash down, and the eclectic flavors can jolt the senses of those who think beer is only water, malted barley, and hops. Belgian beers expand horizons, with tastes ranging from elderflower to banana. One local brewer uses roots of endives rather than hops, while another brand tastes like champagne. At M-Café, the master mixologist (and chef) concocts “beer cocktails” that on any given day may include gin with ice cubes frozen from tonic, all stirred by local “sweet woods” that look to outsiders like small tree branches.
Related: You’ll Never Guess Where to Find the Cheapest Beer in the World
Bikes are everywhere in Leuven. (Photo: FaceMePls/Flickr)
The region offers much more for beer lovers, including the Brabant Beer Bike Trip on Saturday afternoons, and similar trips by bus on Sundays. For those seeking the ultimate beer-themed vacation, spring break can be spent at the Leuven Beer Weekend in April, which features pub tasting tours, a “beer challenge walk,” and a stop at the Zythos Beer Festival. All the particulars are available at Leuven Leisure’s site. For more information on beer-related events throughout Belgium, BeerTourism provides ample details.
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William J. McGee writes about travel and is the author of Attention All Passengers.
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