New York’s Finger Lakes: a Flash Back to Another Era
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Beak and Skiff apple orchard. (Photo: Mary Buttolth)
I cringe when people tell me they’re headed anywhere mildly north of New York City and call it “Upstate.” See, I grew up in the REAL Upstate New York, in the Finger Lakes area (though technically, it’s more like central New York when you look at a map).
Now, a few times a year my family and two dogs pile into our minivan and head “Upstate” to Cayuga Lake, which is just southwest of Syracuse and the longest of the 11 Finger Lakes.
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Sunrise in the Finger Lakes. (Photo: Thinkstock)
A lot of my friends in New Jersey have never even heard of the Finger Lakes. Each time I mention them to my friend Eileen, she squirms and says, “Why does ‘finger’ have to be in the name?”
Early mapmakers came up with the term: they thought the 11 fingers that make up these elongated glacial-formed lakes resembled fingers of a hand. The lakes vary in size and depth. Cayuga Lake — the longest at 40 miles north to south — is three-and-half miles at its widest. The second longest is Seneca Lake; it’s one of the deepest lakes in the United States at 618 feet, and in case you were wondering, it’s also the middle finger of the lakes.
Related: 10 Most Popular Lakes in America
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The author’s kids, sitting on a dock in the Finger Lakes. (Photo: Carey Reilly)
My family typically stays at my aunt’s lake house, which locals call a camp (pronounced up there as “ca-an-mp”). We love the chill lifestyle and the awesome historic hotspots of this area. On our last trip we stopped to fill our tank at a gas station near the camp. It was like pulling into a country station in the 1950s. “Wow,” my husband said, “Time really has stood still up here.”
Yes, time has stood still in the Finger Lakes — but in all the good ways. The region is rich in history and, thankfully, many of the relics have withstood the test of time.
Check out my list of some of my favorite oldie but goodie places in the Finger Lakes, from youngest to oldest:
Mac’s Drive-in Diner, Waterloo
Around since: 1960
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A perfectly vintage scene in front of Mac’s. (Photo: Mac’s Drive-in)
We stumbled upon this little drive-in gem while passing through Waterloo near Seneca Lake. This year marks the 55th season of hamburgers and glass-chilled root beer topped with creamy vanilla ice cream. This place is a seasonal family-owned hamburger stand. Sixteen parking spots are open for cars to drive up and be served burgers and honey buns. My family goes for the great cheap food and the old-time “Americana” experience.
Hunter Dinerant, Auburn
Around since: 1951
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Hunter Dinerant, a classic silver diner. (Photo: Hunter Dinerant)
“Dinerant.” Yes you read that correctly, and l don’t really know what it means; maybe diner-restaur-ant? My Grandfather Bill was once the manager of this treasure in the town I was born in. On our last trip, we stopped by with my family for some tasty grub. Outside it looks like your typical 50’s silver diner. Inside there are comfy booths each with their own jukebox. My kids were amazed they could sit, eat, and flip through the old time music.
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The coolest part about this landmark is that most of it isn’t even on solid ground! The diner sits perched up high on pillars hanging above Owasco River. Locals know this place for its great homemade diner food, including fresh coffee, french fries smothered in gravy, and Fretta, which is a local diner staple of sausage, peppers and onions, ham, and potatoes fried on a griddle then scrambled up with eggs. YUM!
Seneca Farms, Penn Yan
Around since: 1950
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Seneca Farms, a destination for its divine ice cream. (Photo: Seneca Farms)
As a kid I use to frequent this place when visiting relatives on Keuka Lake. Family-owned and operated for almost 65 years, Seneca Farms sits just north of the lake. It was the first drive-thru in the area when it opened in 1950. It’s known for homemade high-butterfat gourmet ice cream made on site. If you come here during the wine festival, you can score some wine-flavored custards. We all know: the fattier the cream, the tastier the sundae. YUMMMMMM.
Finger Lakes Drive-In, Auburn
Around since: 1947
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Ready for a movie under the stars at the Finger Lakes Drive-In. (Photo: Finger Lakes Drive-In)
There’s something to be said about watching a movie on a large screen under the stars. This 1947 drive-in is one of New York’s oldest operating theaters. The last time we went, my husband popped open our minivan’s trunk, pushed the seats down, and laid out our blankets as we all sprawled out and watched The Fantastic Four. You really do feel like you’re in the movie Grease when you pull up and clip the old vintage speakers to your window. My kids were not thrilled when my husband and I started singing, “Grease Lightening, Go Grease Lightening, Go!”
Purity Ice Cream, Ithaca
Around since: 1936
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Purity: an old-school ice cream parlor. (Photo: Carey Reilly)
Spending time in this area always makes me crave ice cream. Wait, who am I kidding? I’m always in the mood for ice cream. On our way back from hiking around one of the tallest waterfalls north of the Rocky Mountains, Taughannock Falls, located near Ithaca, we stopped by Purity Ice Cream’s parlor. This creamery touts itself as “the ice cream of the Finger Lakes since 1936.”
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The thick, creamy rich custard is the recipe made by the original owner, Leo, and it will take you spinning back into the 50’s. The Elvis Presley and Marilyn Monroe decor set the tone for orders like my “usual” — two scoops of chocolate chip cookie dough, hot fudge, and extra whipped cream with no cherry. It is delicious and you WILL want seconds.
Byrne Dairy, multiple locations
Around since: 1933
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Milk in a bottle at Byrne Dairy. (Photo: Byrne Dairy)
I know, I know: putting a convenience mart on this list seems strange, until you taste Byrne’s Dairy’s old-fashioned glass bottled milk. This fourth-generation family-owned dairy with 44 stores across the region began peddling milk in glass bottles from horse-drawn wagons in central New York in 1933. After I first moved to New Jersey I remember seeing a refrigerated milk truck pull up to my neighbor’s house and drop off two half gallon glass bottles of milk. On closer look I realized they were bottles of Byrne Dairy milk being delivered! I immediately felt like I was back home.
Now when we go to the Finger Lakes, my husband always packs an empty cooler in the back of our van before we take off and says, “I’m bringing the cooler, so we can bring home Byrne Dairy.” The whole milk is almost like sipping heavy cream. Plus, drinking milk from a glass bottle is an experience you won’t forget.
Beak and Skiff, Lafayette
Around since: 1911
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The tasting room at Beak and Skiff. (Photo: Mary Buttolth)
Just nominated last week as the number-one apple orchard by USA Today, this family-owned apple farm is located in the town of Lafayette, right where I grew up. I’ve been picking apples out of these orchards literally since I was born. There are rolling hills and lush trees. It’s the perfect place to bring your family, pick your own apples, and munch on yummy homemade doughnuts. You can catch some adult time, too, by slipping into the new tasting room to try their smooth vodka and gin, named after the year the orchards opened: 1911.
Aurora Inn, Aurora
Around since: 1833
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The lakeside Aurora Inn. (Photo: Aurora Inn)
This charming inn sits right on Cayuga Lake. My husband and I had a romantic anniversary dinner on the deck there last summer and it was like looking out at a postcard. Built in 1833 by Colonel E.B. Morgan, one of The New York Times’s original investors, it was first named the Aurora House. It was a major destination for travelers coming by boat, rail, or coach. The Aurora Inn is still a popular place to rest your buns and chow down on delicious food. Oh, and the inn was also given an award of excellence for its great wine list by Wine Spectator magazine.
The Krebs 1899, Skaneateles
Around since: 1899
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The exterior of The Krebs, which has barely changed since 1899. (Photo: The Krebs 1899)
This elegant place is what I like to call, “Babysitter night.” Fred and Cora Krebs first opened this historic restaurant back in 1899, specializing in classic fine dining. Krebs has hosted many celebrities and dignitaries including Presidents Roosevelt and Clinton. The restaurant sits in the quant posh village of Skaneateles, which is right on the gorgeous Skaneateles lake. Krebs stayed in the family for generations until it was reopened a few years back under new ownership. The farm-to-table cuisine is top notch.
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And for all you fancy winos out there you’ll be thrilled to know that Kreb’s was awarded the Wine Spectator’s Best Award of Excellence for its sommelier, Jared Stafford-Hill, as well as for its list of Burgundy and California wine. As if this place wasn’t amazing enough, it also gives back to the community; Krebs donates all of its net profits to various Central New York women and children charities.
Belhurst Castle, Geneva
Around since: 1880’s
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An aerial shot of Belhurst Castle. (Photo: Belhurst Castle)
Yes, I said castle, as in a real stone castle mansion that’s listed on the National Register of Historic Places. This castle without a queen was originally a private residence built in the 1880’s on the shores of Seneca Lake. Of course, no castle would be complete without a little scandal; turns out Belhurst was once a speakeasy and casino during the Prohibition times. Now, the residence has rooms for lodging, ballrooms for weddings, two restaurants, a spa, and its very own award-winning winery. So head on up to Belhurst, booze it up at the winery, boogie down in the ballroom, eat up in the restaurants, and fall asleep like a royal in a fancy castle. I wonder if there’s a dungeon?
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