The New Ethical Rules for Getting a Manicure

I was sorry I’d only gotten clear polish on my nails last week for my manicure, because it seems it’s the last mani/pedi I’ll ever be able to take. After reading The New York Times exposé on the poor pay and health conditions nail salon workers receive, I wondered, if it was time to stop getting my nails done?

Judging by the absolute horror and hand-wringing guilt by so many readers it is clear this is a hot-button issue. It encapsulates treatment of immigrants, health issues, labor issues, women’s rights, income disparity, and a weekly habit that so many women indulge in.

I noticed that nail salons were much emptier this weekend. Women (and, let’s be honest, some men) are clearly asking themselves what they can do to improve the nail salon situation — and if these measures will be effective. Now that we all have our eyes wide open to the horrid treatment of nail salon workers, here are some additional thoughts if you do still want to get your nails done.

1. Tip More?
The solution for underpaid workers sounds simple: Tip more, and in cash, so the money will go directly to the nail salon worker, not the fat-cat employer. But it’s really not so simple. Some salon owners require tip pooling, and others actually may take a slice of the pie. Restaurant workers often face the same problems.

“Assuming that the employees get to keep the tips and management is not kicking back, that’s always going to be better for the employees,” said Richard Greenberg, shareholder with Jackson Lewis, PC, a law firm representing management in workplace law issues. So tipping more is great — but only if management is behaving legally.

2. Treat Manicurists with Dignity
This should probably not have to be said, but be kind to all those who service you. Talk to these women, ask them about themselves, be present for your treatment, instead of on your phone pretending like they’re not there. Sara Maslin Nir, the Times reporter who spent a year researching the nail salon industry and interviewed 125 workers, said you should interview your manicurist. In her article “3 Ways to Be a Socially Conscious Nail Salon Customer”, the reporter advised to find out how much your manicurist makes, and if it’s significantly lower than minimum wage (it’s allowed to be a bit lower in some states due to tipping) then report the salon to the labor department. The problem with that advice is that there is no way of knowing if they are telling the truth. Especially now that the article is out, many tough bosses may keep a closer on their employees and direct them not to divulge their poor work conditions to outsiders.

3. Pressure Your Local Authorities
Although New York officials have already begun to take action, with Governor Andrew M. Cuomo announcing plans to increase safety protection and labor standards, and Public Advocate Leticia James advised giving the city authority to directly oversee salons, The Nation, a pro-labor publication for the last 150 years,  recommends supporting worker unions. Since 2010 California has had the Healthy Nail Salon Collaborative, which certifies salons across the state and collaborated on nationwide worker training and community education efforts, according to The Nation. Other immigrant advocates encourage making standard labor practices apply to industries like these.

4. Find an Ethical Salon
Does your salon charge $20 for a mani/pedi? Consider switching to a higher-end salon, which might cost more, but may also treat their workers better. “If you’re paying $8 for a manicure, how can people make money?” Herzberg said, noting how the salon has to pay for rent, supplies and labor — and the salons may choose to cut into wages even in violation of the law.

5. Do Your Own Nails?
There are enough beauty supply stores and online outlets selling everything you need to do your own nails — even the longer-lasting gel manicures. But will boycotting salons really help? “It’s unclear whether boycotting is the answer,” said Aliza F. Herzberg, Lead partner, Employment Practices Group, Olshan Frome Wolosky LLP, noting that if many people stop patronizing nail salons it might lead to consolidation in the industry and job losses. “In the long run it will force employers to be compliant, but in the short run it will affect individuals who will be out of jobs.”

Related:

New York State Issues Emergency Measures to Protect Nail Salon Workers

NY Times’ 13-Month Investigation of Nail Salon Workers Exploitation